Bouchard Père & Fils : Clos Vougeot Grand cru Domaine 2002

The 2002 Clos Vougeot (domaine) offers demure aromas of spiced blackberries. Medium-bodied, it reveals a broad personality filled with currants and an assortment of dark fruits. Its tightly wound, tannic finish gives cause for concern. Projected maturity: 2008-2015? Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

Moderately saturated medium red. Notes of truffle and caramel complement red berries on the moderately evolved nose. Sweet, supple and plush, displaying mature, slightly decadent flavors of red fruits, caramel and toffee, along with a savory element. Some spiky acidity suggests that this wine should be drunk up soon. (A bottle of the 2002 Beaune Marconnets showed notes of red cherry and minerals but seemed past its peak and beginning to dry out.) Current winemaker Frédéric Weber doesn't believe 2002 is a great vintage. "The wines have good acidity and a lot of tannins but it was a generous year," he told me. "We didn't keep a lot of bottles because we didn't think 2002 would be a good ager. And the temperature in our castle cellar is 15 to 17 degrees [Centigrade], which is too warm."