Domaine Stéphane Ogier : Les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay 2019

A lush and seductive version, with warm apple, peach and ripe apricot flavors woven with notes of white tea, verbena and dried hay. Honeyed and round on the juicy palate, with the richness nicely held in check by bitter pithy acidity and mineral hints. The long finish is marked by a salted butter note. Drink now through 2028. 389 cases made, 25 cases imported.

In this vintage, the grapes were very ripe—probably a bit too much—resulting in cooked fruit. Admittedly, it has breadth and power, but at the expense of freshness.

Undoubtedly one of the finest wines of the appellation, with a definition that commands respect. The terroir imparts admirable freshness, and the whole is perfectly tuned, releasing a tense, saline finish.