Château Haut-Brion 1996

The backward 1996 Haut-Brion was bottled in July, 1998. Even administrator Jean Delmas was surprised by how closed it was when I tasted it in January. Only 60% of the crop was utilized in the final blend, which was 50% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11% Cabernet Franc. Out of barrel, this wine exhibited far more forthcoming aromatics as well as a sweeter Palate than it revealed from bottle. I had expected it to be more forward, and thus slightly down-graded the wine, although I am thrilled to own it and follow what appears to be a slow evolution. It will be a potentially long-lived wine. The 1996 exhibits a deep ruby/purple colour, and a surprisingly tight Bouquet. With aeration, notes of fresh tobacco, dried herbs, smoke, asphalt, and black fruits emerge... but reluctantly. It is tannic and medium-bodied, with outstanding purity and a layered, multidimensional style. However, the finish contains abundant tannin, suggesting that this wine needs 5-8 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2030.

Gorgeous aromas of crushed berries, cigar box, black licorice and tanned leather. Full-bodied, with fine silky tannins and a medium to long finish. Seems a little tight right now. But refined and pretty. Nice for the vintage.--'95/'96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008. 12,500 cases made.

Impressive nose of sweet tobacco with hints of prunes and black cherries. The palate is velvety, but it's a little dull on the finish. Opens a little as the wine is in the glass. Served from imperial bottle.

Full ruby-red. Initially mute nose opened slowly to reveal complex aromas of raspberry, plum, hot stones, tobacco, saddle leather and toffee. Really explodes on the palate; lush and minerally, with a compelling note of woodsmoke and firm acidity. Wonderful combination of sweetness and vibrancy. Finishes very long and subtle, with firm tannins.

Think of black currants, cigar wrappers, and cigar smoke coming on strong, and you get the idea. Medium-bodied, and elegant, this is a wine of finesse over power, with a finish that mirrors the nose, with its tobacco-stained, currant profile with a sprig of spearmint that comes in at the backend of the mildly chewy endnote. 2 hours in the decanter was exactly what the doctor ordered. Drink from 2023-2045.

Deep red colour, dark in the centre. Royal bouquet, cedar notes, truffle, liquorice, quite accessible, expressing early maturity. Firm on the Palate, fleshy, balanced astringency, wonderful deep spice, demanding in the finish, great length, but still far from reaching its peak.

This has stunning aromatics, the most complex of the lineup tasted here, and underlines why 1996 is recognised as one of the great - and often underestimated - vintages of Haut-Brion. Opens at a slow, steady pace, tobacco leaf and grilled cedar, soft blackberry and cassis fruit, gentle cigar box and pencil lead, ready to drink. 65% new oak for ageing. Famously the only Red wine outside of the Médoc to be included in the 1855 classification, Haut-Brion was owned by Joseph Eugène Larrieu at the time, in place since the 1830s, with his family heading things up until the 1920s.

The nose evolves with the typical smoky notes the vintage acquires with aging. Very crisp palate, a hint of severity on the finish, but with real distinction

Logo on the cork: LBG Defective bottle Dark, intense and evolved colour. Very aromatic nose, fruity, animal, smoky, creamy, with a hint of cedar. The palate combines richness with acidity, with a slightly dry finish on this bottle.