Domaine de Chevalier 2009

In late 2011, I had the last bottle in my cellar of the 1970 Domaine de Chevalier. Much to my surprise, it was still holding on to life and remained gorgeously complex in that ethereal Graves style. The 2009, one of the finest Domaine de Chevaliers yet produced, reveals a striking bouquet of burning embers, sweet cherry, black and red currant fruit, spice box, cedar and lead pencil shavings. The tannins are sweet in this fleshy, full-bodied offering. It is built on the notion of extraordinary harmony, elegance and complexity. While not the most concentrated or flamboyant 2009, its intense aromas are already reasonably evolved and its lusciousness and balance are terrific. Made from an interesting blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot, its yields of 45 hectoliters per hectare were slightly higher than many of its neighbors achieved. Drink it over the next 25 years.

Very rich, but sleek and pure, with beautiful mouthfeel and layers of enticing fig, steeped blackberry and warm currant confiture nicely stitched with black tea and mesquite. The long finish has a tarry underlay, but stays polished. Approachable for its mouthfeel, but has the balance to age nicely. Drink now through 2025. 12,000 cases made.

Dominating aromas of smoky new wood follow through to the toasty flavor that covers the fruit at this stage. But, like all 2009s, this is a rich wine that will balance out and show all of its opulence. That said, it will likely always be a firm, ageworthy wine, with the dark tannins always in evidence.

Not so expressive on the nose right now; dark chocolate, cedar, tobacco nuances, some savoury edges with a touch of iodine. Balanced, calm, gentle, quiet, powerful no doubt but not shouting like the 2005 is right now. Smooth, supple, excellent tannins really integrated and supportive giving a wide but soft feel. So delicious, crunchy, ripe, chalky, salty, so much beautiful power and perseverance here. I love this, not trying too hard, effortless almost. Really incredible wine and stands out for its balance and harmony and just giving so much togetherness. Everything works and this remains calm despite the richness.

This is very tight and rich with dried apple, mango and papaya, yet it's bright and floral. Full body, dense fruit and a long, powerful finish. Really open already but complex and beautiful with a richness and intensity that is very, very impressive.

Rich, dark, spicy aromas then spreads sweetly across the palate. Dense and long and already so smooth. (JH)

Just now beginning to wake up, the wine is all about Cuban Cigars, truffle, wet earth, tobacco leaf and red plums. Medium/full-bodied, with soft, elegant, silky tannins and a ripe, sweet, luscious, fruit-filled finish with just a bit of oak left to integrate. Give this about 5 more years in the cellar and you are in for a sublime vintage of Domaine de Chevalier.

Drinking nicely, with some maturity yet still youthful, the 2009 Domaine De Chevalier offers gorgeous red and black currant fruits, smoked tobacco, damp earth, and cedary spice. Full-bodied, opulent, and undeniably sexy on the palate, with a great mid-palate and sweet tannins. Displaying good balance as well as ripe tannins, its dense, opulent profile is going to continue to evolve for another 30 years or more. Don't be afraid to open bottles, though – it's sensational today. The blend of the 2009 is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot.

Deep purple-garnet. Seductive mulberry bouquet, a hint of coconut, vanilla and ripe cherries, with delicate yeast notes still present on the attack. Silky palate, delicate balance, a lovely sweetness radiating from the fine tannins; the finish returns to cherries and a touch of blackberries. As always, a high level with plenty of finesse.

Rich purple-garnet, dense at the core with a violet sheen at the rim. Seductive mulberry bouquet, a hint of coconut, vanilla and ripe cherries, with delicate yeasty notes just beginning to show. Silky palate, delicate balance, a lovely sweetness radiating from fine tannins; cherries again on the finish and now also a touch of blackberry. As always, at the usual high level with plenty of finesse. (18/20). 12: Somehow this wine is unbelievably youthful and alluring. Despite only intending to taste, I couldn’t hold back and took a hearty sip. (18/20). Drunk and commented on during an exciting Bordeaux tasting at Merkur in Vienna, in the wine bar. This is a really open, soft, sexy 2009. The fun factor is huge. And so is its price appeal. (18/20). 19: Quite dark wine-red with crimson reflections. Full, almost buttery bouquet; intense fruit with wild strawberries, stewed cherries and damson plums. You already get a sense of vinous eroticism. Creamy, round palate; everything is soft, harmonious and in the right place. Perhaps not a typical Chevalier, but one that can intoxicate the masses and makes you want a third sip. With a bit of luck you can still find this wine on the market for under 100 francs! At the moment: 19/20.

A dense, velvety, powerful bouquet: black cherries, blackberries, subtle mocha and cedar notes. The palate is dense, elegant and fresh, with fine fruit, a sweet aromatic profile, and a long, full finish. Can still improve. 18/20 Drink through 2030.

Some of the best quality tannins on display among all the 2009s are found here at Domaine de Chevalier. Delineated, precise, still young and flexible, cradling blackberry and cassis fruits along with incense, crayon and rosebud. Less generous than many from this vintage right now with decades ahead of it. Balanced, finessed but concentrated and intense. Gorgeous. 33% new oak for ageing.

Classy, beautifully extracted and refined. Supple and silky, with a superb mid-palate, finely extracted with very fine tannins, good length; the finish still lacks a bit of pep.

Logo on the cork: DF Dark, intense colour with a slight evolution. An intense, refined nose with pure fruit. Spicy, smooth nuances. Delicate on the attack, smooth as it develops, fragrant mid-palate, the wine glides through to the finish, where it gains stature with a fine length, without any sharp edges. Immediate pleasure.