Bibi Graetz : Colore 2011

With fruit from 60-year-old vines, the 2011 Colore is a precious blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino in equal parts. This is a highly singular wine made in very reduced quantities (only 2,000 bottles were produced). This mid weight expression shows a dark garnet color and moderate luminosity. That muted color is recognized across the very artisanal wines made by Bibi Graetz. The quality of fruit is bitter and raw and there is some sourness on the close. Having said that, enthusiasts will appreciate these one-off wines, especially with regards to how they relate to the strong personalities that create them. Lingering ash, smoke and dark licorice add subtle elegance on the finish. The only point of contention is the price tag.

A ripe, intense red, this exhibits black cherry, blackberry, earth and spice aromas and flavors, with the balance tipping toward the oak and tannins. Firmly structured, but ready now with aeration and the right food. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Drink now through 2022. 200 cases made, 50 cases imported.

After a capricious summer, August was exceedingly hot, and this persuaded Graetz to leave more bunches on the vines than had been customary, the idea being to avoid over-concentration. It seems to have worked. The nose has fragrance and charm, and reticent cherry aromas. The palate is supple and rounded, and already drinking well although it does have a tannic backbone that gives formidable grip. This has fine length, and a sweet and sour finish.

Ripe and rich aromas of plums and spices with some dried flowers. Figs and cherries, too. Full-bodied with chewy tannins and lots of fruit. A big, richer red. Flavorful finish. Just a baby. Drink or hold.

Sweet, velvety, creamy, full-bodied, fruity bouquet: strawberry jelly, plums, dried fruits, mocha cream, nougat, herb butter. Tightly knit, powerful palate with intense dark fruit, lots of fine tannin, a creamy, subtly opulent and elegant structure, powerful, dark, sweet aromatics; long, dense, full finish with plenty of lingering flavours. 19/20 drink - 2034