Château d'Yquem 1982

This vintage, seriously maligned because of the rains that plagued the harvest in Sauternes, was actually an outstanding vintage for both Yquem and its nearby neighbor, Chateau Suduiraut, which brought in much of their crops before the rains did any damage. Yquem then waited until the vineyards dried out, bringing in their last grapes on November 7. The 1982 is a very forward style of Yquem, plump, succulent, with honeyed pineapple, peach, and apricot flavors, exhibiting some, but not a great deal of botrytis. In the mouth, it is massive, thick, and almost as impressive as the 1983, but one does not sense the same degree of length or potential complexity. Nevertheless, this is still a great Yquem that has been somewhat overlooked because of the attention lavished on the 1983 and 1986. Anticipated maturity: Now-2020. Last tasted, 12/90.

A deep amber color, with mulled orange, clover and musk notes that are pillowy in feel through the slightly blowsy finish. A tough vintage for Sauternes, but this manages to keeps its more overt sweetness in line, keeping the softer feel intact from start to finish. -- Non-blind Yquem vertical (July 2014). Drink now.

Picked 16 September to 5 November after a hot, dry summer. Ridiculous (to me) that this sells for so much less than the markets will pay for, say, Ch Lafite 1982. RS 100 g/l. Glowing orange. Intense barley-sugar flavours. Sweet, yes, but so fresh and vibrant – no heaviness. There is real lift-off in this wine! Maybe not that long but it’s so refreshing! (JR)

The 1982 Yquem is one of the few impressive Sauternes from a difficult vintage for the appellation. This bottle at the château replicates the showing of the one at Hatched two years earlier. The 1982 has honeysuckle and quince aromas on the nose that is perhaps a tad more floral, but it's very expressive and maybe even more defined than the better-regarded 1983. The palate is well balanced with a tangy entry and a fine bead of acidity. It is lively and precise toward the harmonious finish. Bon vin. Tasted at the Yquem vertical at the château.

A nice d'Yquem, but short of thrilling, the wine is on the orange, tropical side of the style range with caramel, molasses, and brown sugar nuances that ride along with the candied orange rind, molasses, tangerine and candied orange rind, topped with an array of spices and butterscotch. Drink from 2022-2037.

Bright medium golden yellow, silver reflections. A seductive bouquet with intense nuances of blossom honey, orange marmalade, tangerine, some lanolin and saffron. Complex, juicy, well-implemented sweetness, appears solid and powerful, pleasant wood spice on the finish, a rather traditional style due to the hot vintage, already fully mature, versatile.

I was unfair to the 1982 for a long time. It somehow struggled to develop… now it’s outgrown that stage and is finally on its way (probably barefoot) toward a classic Yquem. Intense yellow. A complex, very expressive nose with typical notes of saffron, honey, apricot, toasted almonds, and orange peel. On the palate, a density I had never experienced in this vintage. It’s powerful, full-bodied, creamy, seductive. Tasted for the 5th time, rated this highly for the first time. I burned my old notes.

This Yquem taught me the most important lesson of all and made me realize that you should never touch a Yquem too young (before ten years of ageing). Time and again I’ve rated this ’82 higher each time it returned to my palate. It all began with 15/20 points in 1989. In 1991 it was at 16/20. A note from 1992: developing more and more positively; toast, caramel, almonds, well-wrapped botrytis. On the palate it feels very young, with the corresponding reserves, lots of length on the finish. I criticized it unjustly and now, to rehabilitate it, I place it on the same level as Suduiraut Cuvée de la Madame from the same vintage. I now also understand why even among the employees at this Château there are disagreements as to whether ’82 or ’83 is the greater wine. Increasingly I’m convinced that this Yquem is slowly but surely heading toward 19/20. It just keeps getting better. 1997, drunk from a bottle that had stood in the refrigerator for a whole week: a small sip confirmed to me that it is now truly a 19/20 and belongs among the very great Yquem vintages. Another tasting: beforehand we drank nine different 1982 red Bordeaux. Some were already eyeing the cigars I’d brought, and then there was a moment of inattention as filled glasses of this phenomenal ’82 d’Yquem from Jo Ziltener’s cellar (thanks Jo!) were set down. I smelled it and emptied the glass in one go. I kept the wine in my mouth for a good three minutes and with every second felt that endless sense of well-being that comes from rolling a truly great d’Yquem around the palate. I didn’t write anything down — but of course I poured myself another! 98: medium yellow; golden reflections, bright. Intense, concentrated bouquet; lots of aromas that, together with the beautiful botrytis note, put on a wonderful dance on the nose, with light caramel in the background — a compact force. On the palate, superbly balanced; fresh berry and other fruit notes, honey, vanilla, a rich, long finish. If this ’82 Yquem keeps going like this, it could even become a 20/20 wine. 01: Jo Ziltener brought a bottle. While my colleagues lit a broad cigar, I quickly poured myself a second glass. 03: from a half bottle it now shows fine maturity; the beguiling sweetness mingles with a peppery, freshness-giving botrytis. On the palate, fat, rich, a real orgy of aromas (19/20). 06: at the Delice restaurant in Stuttgart. Peter Eltschinger not only had the motorcycles but also had his generous pants on and ordered this bottle. Somehow this Yquem keeps getting fresher and more peppery. It was tremendous fun and was therefore gone quickly. 09: now becoming milder and softer (19/20). 10: rich, opulent nose, truly Rubens-like; a Milanese pastry note, almost buttery with botrytis-like glue tones; inside, orange zest and cake fruits. On the palate almost over-rich, Burgundian, lots of notes of freshly chopped light sultanas; in the extract fine marzipan, angelica, glucose, with an acidity that can only with great effort balance the rich sugar. Anyone claiming that very great Sauternes often resemble a somewhat thick liqueur can find vivid proof of it here (19/20). 12: rather dark yellow, bright. Fascinating, perfumed bouquet, light raisin scent, honey, dried unsulfured apricots; there are clearly more layers here than in Suduiraut, gentle pressure, filigreed sweetness. The palate is complex and creamy-elegant, showing caramel, almond pastry, candied orange peel in the extract. The whole is an act of nobility and finesse. For years this underrated Yquem has added a little extra each time, so it carries with it a further decades-long guarantee of life (19/20). 13: drunk at Lafaurie-Peyraguey at the decades dinner. Medium yellow with an orange shimmer. Delicate, very multi-layered bouquet: white pepper, candied orange peel, with underlying light roast notes that give the filigreed bouquet a nutty edge. On the palate, finest class and many nuances; the sensational, perhaps slightly slender-seeming but very long finish is marked by light nougat, caramel and fresh lemon zest (19/20). 22: magnum. Orange-gold color. Open bouquet with a finely peppery, perfumed botrytis, very multi-layered, with candied honey, freshly roasted fairground almonds, turmeric, pale apricots and a hint of saffron. On the palate, dancing; the sweetness is finely tuned with perfectly balancing acidity. In the aromatic finish it is delicately buttery with crème brûlée aromas (19/20).

Silky, dense, full-bodied, creamy bouquet with notes of caramel, candied fruits, raisins, nougat and Turkish delight. Dense, creamy, elegant, finely opulent palate with a powerful, creamy sweetness, a finely opulent structure, well-integrated acidity, complex, intense aromatics, and a long, mellow finish. 19/20 drink – 2030

Granny Smith apple, silky and soft texture, fresh acidities, quince, saffron and truffle notes, along with gentle citrus. There is less concentration than in many years of Yquem, and it is on the plateau but will not improve further from here. Unlike the red wines of Bordeaux, 1982 was more complicated in Sauternes, and in the end just the earliest passes through the vineyard, during September, were used in the final blend. But this remains a magical wine, wonderful to take your time over. 108g/l sugar, one of the lowest on record. Alexandre de Lur Saluces director.

The 1982 d’Yquem is medium gold-amber in color. It takes some swirling and coaxing before notes of praline, preserved lemons, apple butter, and dusty soil emerge from the glass, followed by hints of lime leaf and tobacco leaf. The full-bodied palate is racy and complex, laden with citrus and mineral layers, finishing on a lingering, lemon-laced, creme brulee note. The residual sugar is 108.4 g/l.

The 1982 vintage produced a lovely Yquem, rich and full-bodied, with pronounced candied-fruit notes—unmatched in its generosity. It has good structure, with a very slight hollow note that gives it a more airy feel. 13.2% ABV and 108 g/L. Acidity: 4.51 g H2SO4.

So that was the bottle! The wine continues its beautiful, noble journey. A deep, intense copper hue. A very refined, subtle nose, delicately vanilla-scented, giving a sense of timelessness. The palate is melting, airy, silky and powerful, with splendid fruit brightness. A subtle finish with a noble texture. Superb. A great success from Yquem, which I have always considered superior to the 1983.