Domaine Bonneau du Martray : Corton-Charlemagne Grand cru 2014

Very sexy aromas of apple, wild herbs, spices and soil. Boasts outstanding breadth and sweetness, with lovely savory complexity to the flavors of medicinal herbs, citrus fruits and powdered stone. Really superb tension in the mouth here. The echoing, building finish conveys an impression of outstanding density and a strong saline character. Showing spectacularly today but it's hard to believe that this wine won't shut down in bottle at some point.

Still very reductive, vivid oak character. On the nose, marigold and fresh corn. Quite juicy acidity, austere, defensive fruit accompaniment, just becoming more supple; juice and spiciness are good, length too; the complexity remains rather middleweight, with salty notes.

In its new bottle with the base stamped with the estate’s name, this is a wine of vibrating purity, with a silky citrus-textured feel punctuated by saline nuances, delivering a multidimensional impression with an endless finish.

Still in its reduction phase, this Charlemagne does not lack depth. As is often the case, it is built for aging. The fruit and the élevage combine admirably, but it needs to be forgotten for now.