Domaine Bonneau du Martray : Corton-Charlemagne Grand cru 2015

Almost paradoxically, the 2015 vintage at six years of age was less open than either the 2019 or the 2017 vintages. The somewhat restrained fruit is ripe but not tropical; it is closer to quince and ripe apricot. The creamy, buttery aromas are present but not dominant. The texture is supple and rich but not heavy. The wine does not have the freshness of 2019, nor the lighter, more elegant nature of the 2017 vintage. It is the one furthest from citrus and closest to honey, yet it refrains from over-ripeness—mysteriously impressive wine.

Light straw-yellow. Deep, soil-inflected aromas and flavors of white stone fruits, clove, hazelnut, marzipan, white pepper, smoke and minerals, with a note of orange bitters emerging after extended aeration. Wonderfully rich, silky and mouthfilling but not at all heavy, showing considerable baby fat for young Corton-Charlemagne but with a powerful stony underpinning. Seriously rich, ageworthy wine with a touch of dusty tannins and palate-saturating breadth and salty length. This wine is seriously satisfying right now but should undergo dramatic transformation over the years as it burns off some of its baby fat, which it started to do with 72 hours in the recorked bottle. A star of the vintage, showing no sign of heat or blurriness and communicating a very strong if fully ripe impression of terroir.

A very pure approach to corton-charlemagne, expressive in ripe citrus. The superb salinity that develops on the finish supports an exceptionally long finale. Another masterpiece to the credit of Jean-Charles Le Bault de la Morinière before his departure.

One of the most accomplished vintages, with a broad, precise, and fleshy palate. To be cellared without fail.