Philipponnat : Clos des Goisses 2013

Surpassing even the 2012 and 2008, Philipponnat's 2013 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses looks to be the finest vintage of this cuvée in several decades, at least on first acquaintance. Deriving from only the six core parcels out of the 13 that make up the Clos des Goisses, it's a striking wine, evoking aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, Anjou pear, clear honey, bee pollen, stone fruit and iodine. Full-bodied, layered and vinous, its textural attack segues into a deep, concentrated and tightly wound mid-palate that's girdled by racy acids and chalky structure, before concluding with a long, saline finish. Why is it quite so good? It would appear that 2013 was the perfect storm: an early-ripening terroir in a cool, late vintage; moderately yielding Burgundian selections of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that attained full maturity; and a willingness to make a strict selection have all come together to deliver a profound Clos des Goisses.

This chalky Champagne shows seamless integration, wrapping a laser beam of mouthwatering acidity in a satiny mousse and rich flavors. Finely meshed and subtle at first, expanding on the palate to reveal a delicate skein of ground ginger, anise and cardamom spices winding through notes of ripe cassis and green apple, toast point, pickled ginger and salted Marcona almond. Floral finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Disgorged March 2022. Drink now through 2038. 800 cases made, 50 cases imported.

This is elegant and sophisticated with aromas of red apples, honey, pears, hazelnuts, praline, croissants and hints of white chocolate. Very fine, tight bubbles. Framed and structured. Focused from start to finish, with so much life ahead. 85% pinot noir and 15% chardonnay. Disgorged March 2022. Drink or hold.

The 2013 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is fabulous. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2013 is in no mood to show all its cards. The late harvest produced a bristling, intensely saline Clos des Goisses that will require years to be at its best. Even so, its depth, textural resonance and finish are so evocative as to what the future holds. The 2013 is a positively stunning Champagne and one of the best Goisses in recent memory. I can't wait to see how it develops. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter.

Tasting this a year later alongside the new release of 2014, the 2013 Champagne Clos des Goisses Extra Brut seems to be coming into its own. Composed of 85% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, and pouring a rich straw/copper hue, it’s starting to show lovely, layered aromatics as it unfolds with scents of red berries, currant, toasted croissant, frangipane, and orgeat. Full-bodied, assertive, and long on the palate, it has driving, assertive energy with fantastic concentration and acidity. Though it has broad shoulders, it remains in check with itself and offers a long, fantastic finish. It has great structure and an angular feel, with notes of Meyer lemon preserves and orange rind, and delivers wonderful energy throughout. This can hold up through a meal of sweetbreads or other rich fare. 10,723 bottles were produced. Drink 2024-2055. Disgorged in March 2022, with 4.5 grams per liter dosage.

Clos des Goisses 2013, while it may not have the density of its one-year elder, retains its dimension, stature, and fullness, with the year’s crystalline energy and tension. This is a great bottle that will age beautifully and will continue to gain patina and breed. However, it is still a little restrained and needs time.

The new release of this Champagne is impressively stylish. It comes from a vertiginous vineyard facing north across the Marne river, the soil producing a wine with intense minerality and texture that demands time to soften. So, the blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is set for further aging. Ideally, wait for this magnificent wine until 2025.