Philipponnat : Clos des Goisses 2014

There’s a regal grace to this statuesque Champagne, with the finely detailed, gauzy-textured mousse softening the impact of its chiseled acidity and rich underpinning of chalky minerality. Offers an integrated frame layered with flavors of pastry dough, ripe black currant, glazed tangerine and crystallized honey. Hints of grilled nuts and fleur de sel linger on the racy finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Disgorged March 2023. Drink now through 2040. 1,665 cases made, 70 cases imported.

This shows elegant, complex aromas of pie crust, cinnamon rolls, spiced apples and hazelnuts. Hints of mocha and berry crumble. Very creamy bubbles on the palate, with caressing pastry elements married to bright acidity. There’s richness, but it’s sleek and fresh on the finish. 71% pinot noir and 29% chardonnay. Disgorged March 2023. 4.5 g/L dosage. Drink or hold.

The 2014 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is aromatic, soft-spoken and quiet in demeanor. This is an especially floral, delicate Goisses with lovely floral top notes and decidedly mid-weight structure. The 2014 remains noticeably fresh and vibrant, but I just find it a bit light on the mid-palate. Dosage is 4.25 grams per liter. Disgorged: March 2023.

Made from 71% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, the 2014 Champagne Clos des Goisses Extra Brut takes on a very pretty and floral profile. Pouring a bright straw hue, it’s lifted with the perfume of cherry blossoms, wet stone, fresh berries, and sweet brioche. Full-bodied, though more linear compared to the 2013 vintage, it’s highlighted by a refined, chalky texture with a pillowy mousse, building to a ripe and rounded mid-palate and a long, elegant finish with a flourish of white pepper spice. Though it’s certainly not the most powerful vintage for the vineyard, it’s very attractive. It will benefit from another couple of years and continue to improve over the next two decades. Disgorged in March of 2023, with 4.5 grams per liter dosage.

This always-memorable single-vineyard Champagne is dominated by rich Pinot Noir. The vineyard, a steep slope facing the Marne river, has given an intense, concentrated wine that has aged so well. Touches of toast are equaled by the rich fruit and acidity. Drink this great wine now.

The 2014 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses, the latest rendition from this walled vineyard, reveals a fresh, energetic character with aromas of pear, peach, licorice, spices, white fruits, spring flowers and menthol. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and chiseled, this is a structured, tension-filled but ethereal Champagne with high acidity, a sign of a cool-weather vintage. Although already thoroughly enjoyable, it should age well over the next 10 years. This is a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, disgorged with a dosage of 4.25 grams per liter.