René Gabriel
The best bottles are worth 17/20. But many impressions fluctuated between 15/20 and 16/20. From my cellar in 1988: a fragrant, well-balanced bouquet with a touch of apricot. On the palate, good substance with some remaining tannins. A Sauternes that leans more toward elegance and finesse. Drunk in Belgium in 1991, it was rather little fun. I increasingly believe that the labels for Yquem 1970 were mixed up with Fargues. Because Fargues is significantly better, whereas the ’70 d’Yquem becomes increasingly dry and viscous. One year later: floral nose, burnet, chalk; delicate and expansive, then after 30 minutes develops resin and pine notes, light caramel, rather reserved, honey. On the palate, a fine capsular note that is disturbing; melting on the outside, leathery within. Rated higher by the public. Above all it lacks sweetness. The chalky notes take over more and more; the palate becomes capsular. A disappointing d’Yquem. As the finale to a comprehensive ’70 red wine tasting in 1995, it did little justice to this otherwise quite successful vintage. 98: maturing golden yellow with a botrytis shimmer. Open, jammy bouquet; despite intensity, rather simple. On the palate, too little acidity, a pasty flow, fine bitterness in the extract, matures too quickly to undergo great development (17/20). 05: as a sweet finish to a truffle dinner. Peppery nose with an uncannily perky botrytis; because the wine beneath is dry-sweet, the aromatic profile almost seems a bit sharp. On the palate, it shows a polarizing sweetness and acidity—this makes it intense, but also steals a touch of harmony. Aromatically, it seems to be gaining again. 10: I served this wine alongside Rieussec and Lafaurie-Peyraguey at the Sempacherhof. It was thus able to demonstrate impressively its demonstrative greatness, and its difference from the other Sauternes. There is no need to hurry here (18/20). 12: bright golden yellow, a lightening rim. Somehow the bouquet is a bit woody; the sweetness feels dry, yet also surprisingly concentrated—caramelized orange peel, ginger notes. On the palate, lots of malt, slightly austere in the extract, somehow unfinished, and unfortunately shows very fine capsular notes on the finish. The nose is clearly better than the palate. 1970 wasn’t a Sauternes year either! Or a bad bottle? 21: the darkest color of all the Sauternes tasted in this series of four (Climens, La Tour Blanche and Guiraud). Delicate bouquet: lemon balm, orange blossom, apricot compote, a hint of bitter orange marmalade, dried apricots, saffron, as well as distinct malt and caramel notes. Velvet-textured, full, almost opulent palate; the acidity only just supports it, so this Yquem is almost Burgundian in approach, with a tightly knit finish. Now at a wonderful stage of maturity and delivering a lot of pleasure at a fairly high level. Not truly a very great Yquem. But I liked it very much because it stood above the competition. Most importantly, it can also be drunk calmly, without worry or stress, over the coming decades. A superb bottle! (19/20).