René Gabriel
Served with dessert at a comprehensive 1981 tasting in 1991: an elegant, long wine with concealed signs of botrytis. Certainly one of the best ’81s, but I’d rather buy four bottles of Climens 1983 than a single d’Yquem 1981. If I really have to rate it as a d’Yquem, then my strictness is (hopefully) understandable. It almost seems to me that a juice like this ought to be synthetically constructible. A liqueur for ladies who aren’t particularly demanding. As a rule of thumb, once again: “Better a small Sauternes from a great year than the other way around.” A magnificent wine for label drinkers. But only for that unfortunately not-so-rare species! 95: If, a year later, I hadn’t known it was a d’Yquem blind tasting, one could easily have taken it for a sweet Loire wine. Molasses on the nose, primroses, no botrytis. The sweetness outweighs the medium-length wine. 98: Had already developed a somewhat straw-like color. Open; first sherry, manzanilla notes. On the palate a note of rotten grass, not entirely clean, little fun, and it will develop (too) quickly.